About KRYSTALRESIN kit:
Clear epoxy coating for table tops, bar tops, counter tops and artistic applications. Our product is used extensively by many artists,contractors, commercial restaurant chains throughout the world and also by many do-it-yourselfers.
Krystal resin kit is a 100% solid, two component, clear polymer coating that is mixed at a 1 to 1 ratio by volume. Each kit contains a bottle of resin and a bottle of hardener. The product cures to a clear, high build, glass like finish that resists scratching, yellowing and will not distort with age. Items coated with it will become permanently preserved and protected for your enjoyment throughout a lifetime. This product will not exhibit blushing or sweat out under high humidity conditions.
The product should be applied in two stages. The first stage is referred to as the seal coat. The seal coat is brushed on in a thin layer and is used to seal any pores in the surface and prevent air bubbles from forming in the following flood coats. This stage is followed by the flood coat, which will flow and self level, clean brushes or squeegee can be used to help spread the epoxy. Flood coats are applied in 1/8" layers at a time, as many as desired can be applied, however one to three coats is average for most table or bar coatings.
Heat resistance level after curing (after a month): 190°F (90 °C) great for counter-tops and coasters
First few weeks its more delicate so heat resistance is lower during this time.
Working Time : between 30 - 40 min
Max Thickness : 3/4" each layer, 6-8 hrs to add more layers and 24 hrs to sand (for River Tables). you can easily reach to 5"- 6" by multi-layering.
recommended room temperature is above 25° to avoid cracking and have less micro bubbles.
Recoating can usually be be done within 4 to 8 hours. If re-coated within this time period no sanding is necessary between layers.
If your previous layer has fully dried, very light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper is recommended to achieve a good bonding surface. After sanding you should wipe down with a solvent such as denatured alcohol or acetone to remove any impurities from the surface. (do NOT use mineral spirits)
Objects, such as pictures, maps etc. can be imbedded in this product during the pours. Most photo quality paper does not require any special preparation however sometimes thin paper objects must first be sealed with a white glue or similar product to prevent the kleer koat from fully penetrating the paper and causing it to become transparent.
Imbedding Solid Objects (wood, rocks, shells, etc.)
All porous materials should first have a seal coat of epoxy applied. This will prevent air bubbles from occurring in subsequent flood coats. Usually the objects can be set in place before sealing.
For best results the product must be used at temperatures from 70-80 degrees F. The room which you are working should be clean, dry, dust and insect free. Settling dust can often cause blemishes on the glassy surface.
Liquids should be stored in a cool, dry, dark environment. Product will last for at least 6 months and many times will last longer, but small testing should be done if in doubt. The hardener may get more amber in color as it gets older, but this does not affect the use of the product.
Coverage: See the coverage charts shown below to calculate the amount you will need for your area. Remember not to combine seal and flood coat coverage's. Flood coats are designed to go on approximately 1/8" thick, which is about three times thicker than that of a seal coat.
Example: A 6ft x 4ft bare wood table (24sq ft) would require 2 Quarts to complete ONE seal coat and about a gallon and a half to complete ONE flood coat for a total of Two Gallons.
This material leaves professional results when applied correctly so take your time and make sure to beware of these of the common problems we have seen encountered by first time users.
1. Always make sure that your mixing container is clean and your measuring device is accurate, this product REQUIRES that you mix at a 1 to 1 ratio by weight or volume, any variances from this can cause the epoxy to stay soft and not fully cure.
2. This product requires a THOROUGH mixing, usually between 4 to 5 minutes of solid mixing without excessive whipping of the mixture(whipping will put lots of air bubbles into the epoxy). Mixing one gallon at a time can require up to 6 to 7 minutes of mixing. Beginners should never attempt to mix more than one gallon total per batch, 2 quarts per batch is suggested until you feel comfortable with how the product works.
3. After the two components are poured together and stirring begins the mixture will turn a cloudy white color, this represents areas in which the epoxy has not fully combined. You must continue to mix until all signs of cloudiness and tiny white lines have completely disappeared (usually takes 3-4 minutes of thorough mixing).
4. Always scrape the sides of your mixing container and also the stick during those 3-4 minutes. If UNMIXED epoxy remains on the side of the container or the stick it will cause wet spots on your finished product if that UNMIXED material falls into your project......Followup: While pouring your epoxy onto the surface NEVER scrape the container to remove every last drop, because no matter how thorough you mix there will always be an unmixed drop on the side of the container that will leave a wet spot.
NOTE : Typical allergic contact dermatitis reactions may occur in individuals allergic to epoxy resin or other components of an epoxy resin system.
Never breathe the sanding dust of partially cured epoxy. Epoxy chemicals remain reactive until they have cured. Serious health problems can result from sanding epoxy before it is fully cured. When you inhale these dust particles, they become trapped in the mucous lining of your respiratory system. The reactive material can cause severe respiratory irritation and/or respiratory allergies.
COLD WEATHER WARNING :
If your epoxy arrives cold during shipment is must be allowed to acclimate to at least 75 degrees F before using. Mixing this product below 75 degrees will increase the potential for under-mixed epoxy which will create wet or sticky areas on your surface. Cold temperatures will also trap more very tiny air bubbles during the mixing which cannot always be removed with the torch/heat gun. To warm the epoxy quickly we recommend using either a heat lamp, an electric heater or placing the closed bottles of epoxy in a tub of warm water for 30 minutes. Getting the epoxy too hot will result in a faster reaction time, so pay careful attention to what you're doing.